England, Paris and Alicante
4th to 26th July 2006

West Wycombe
9th July

21

 

 

 

 


Next on our "to do" list was the "church with the golden ball" in West Wycombe,
also a favourite from our childhood years.


St Lawrence Church
and The Dashwood Mausoleum.
 West Wycombe, Buckinghamshire.
The Nefarious Goings On Of The Hell Fire Club.

West Wycombe is a delightful, though tiny, village, comprised of a single high street of timber and flint buildings, on the outskirts of which sits the magnificent seat of the Dashwood family, the beautifully Palladian West Wycombe Park. On the summit of the steep conical hill across the road from the house, is the immense Dashwood Mausoleum, behind which towers the strange golden ball that sits uneasily atop the church of St Lawrence. Meanwhile, hewn out of the hillside beneath are a series of caves, reached via an entrance that has been fashioned to resemble a gothic church and which adds to the overall ambience of eccentricity with which the overall estate seems imbued.  

The person responsible for all this was Sir Francis Dashwood (1708-1781), a man whose name has become a byword for hedonistic debauchery, and who is today best remembered as a leading light in the most infamous of all the so-called “Hell Fire” clubs. These secret societies had become popular with wealthy young aristocrats in the first half of the 18th century and in 1721 it was considered necessary to pass a Royal edict condemning “Young People who meet together in the most impious and blasphemous manner.. and corrupt the minds and morals of one another”. 

Ironically, Dashwood’s organisation, which is now perhaps the only one to be universally remembered, and which operated between the 1740’s and 1760’s, never actually called itself the ‘Hell-Fire-Club’, preferring instead to be known as the “Knights of St Francis”. John Wilkes (1725 – 1797), the radical politician, and an enthusiastic member, described their gatherings as “A set of worthy, jolly fellows, happy disciples of Venus and Bacchus, got together to celebrate women in wine”. The select central core of just thirteen “apostles”, led by Sir Francis Dashwood, included Lord Sandwich, John Wilkes, the painter William Hogarth, poets Charles Churchill, Robert Lloyd and Paul Whitehead, whilst American, Benjamin Franklin, was reputed to have been an occasional visitor. 

Although their early meetings probably took place at the homes of various members, including West Wycombe Park, Sir Francis began casting around for a base that would provide the necessary seclusion for the club's activities. He settled on the ruins of the old Cistercian abbey at Medmenham, six miles from West Wycombe, which he restored to opulent splendour and inscribed above archway over the entrance the club's motto Fay ce que voudras (Do as you wish). Thereafter the society would also be known as “The Monks of Medmenham”. 

Despite the fact that these self -styled monks certainly indulged in a goodly amount of sexual frolicking, and did include mock religious services in their rituals, there is no evidence to suggest that, as has been frequently claimed, they ever practiced Satanism. The rumour that they did, was probably begun by their enemies in the late 18th Century, and gathered momentum throughout the 19th and 20th Centuries. There is, however, a delightful, though spurious, tale that at one of the meetings, John Wilkes concealed a baboon, which he had dressed as the Devil, in a chest beneath his seat. At an appropriate moment, he jerked a cord which opened the chest and the creature jumped onto Lord Sandwiches shoulders who, believing that he had conjured up the Devil, cried out “Spare me gracious Devil: spare a wretch who never was sincerely your servant. I sinned only from vanity of being in the fashion; thou knowest I never have been half so wicked as I pretended: never have been able to commit the thousandth part of the vices which I boasted of…”. 

The animosity felt by Lord Sandwich for John Wilkes would lead him to pursue a vendetta against him that would see Wilkes expelled from the House of Commons and ultimately, lead to his being jailed for three years. At the height of the Wilkes scandal, Sandwich is supposed to have exclaimed at him, “Upon my soul Wilkes, I don’t know whether you’ll die upon the gallows or of the pox” “That depends, my lord,” replied Wilkes “on whether I first embrace your lordships principles or your lordships mistresses”. But their feud also dragged in other members, including Sir Francis himself and, by 1766, he had effectively disbanded the Knights of St Francis and thereafter they would be nothing more than a vague, albeit infamous memory, around whom all manner of salacious gossip would gather.

Borrowed from Haunted Britain and Ireland

West Wycombe

The entire town of West Wycombe is owned by the National Trust, who purchased it in 1929 when it was under threat of destruction. The village boasts several fine examples of historic buildings, with most dating from the 16th to 18th centuries. Leaflets outlining an architectural walking trail about the village are available from shops on the High Street.

West Wycombe Hill, above the town, is surmounted by an Iron Age hillfort, which shares space with a largely-13th century church. The church is topped with an enormous golden ball, large enough to hold 6 people. It was created by Sir Francis Dashwood of Hellfire Club fame as a meeting (read "drinking") space. The interior of the church is remarkable; it was created to emulate an Egyptian temple with Corinthian columns, marble floors, and richly decorated ceilings and walls.

Borrowed from Britain Express

St Lawrence Church





In line with his sense of humour, Dashwood rebuilt an old Norman tower on top of the hill into a church, modelled on the custom house in Venice, complete with a large golden sphere on top. This church - assuredly quite Christian - is apparently 300 feet (91m) above the 'Inner Temple' of the caverns.

Borrowed from Blather.net


Being Sunday, there was a service in progress when we arrived, so we explored
the cemetery...

... and the Mausoleum.
Apparently it was used in the film To The Devil A Daughter.
Blather.net has more pics of the Mausoleum, church and the Hellfire Caves,
which we unfortunately didn't have time to visit... then again, by the
look of the pics, maybe that was fortunate !



Service over... up we go !
Probably the narrowest spiral staircase I've ever climbed.


You know those fleeting glimpses of a childhood 
long since past ? I have one of Bob and myself
sitting inside this ball. Maggi doesn't remember
going inside it, and I think the reason for that
is that she didn't want to climb the tower that day.


It was windy up there !


Bill also took these two of the view. Looks like a market down there.


Looking back down the main road.

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